Oh ~ it's a sad time of the year when we see the leaves falling and chilly winds blowing and we boaters feel that our summer months have been far too short! It is at this time we must turn our attention over to the winterization of our boats. This is a very important topic to write about because if this process is not done properly, we could loose our engine, (if your area expects hard freezing conditions.) Now, if you live in a more tropic climate, only some areas of this article will affect you. On areas that it can effect all climates, I will put an * next to the alphabetical listing.

A.*On all boats that will be winterized or not used for five to six months or more, you must use a fuel stabilizer. Fuel stabilizer will eliminate the change of your fuel turning to varnish and also protects the octane level in the fuel. Fuel stabilizer is available at almost all marine dealerships and also hardware stores. Sta-Bil, Stor-n-Start are two of the popular brands.

It's always best to add it on the last fill up of the season. That way you will be running the boat and it will protect the tank, fuel lines and the carburetor. Now, if you have already finished boating for the year, read the container as to how may ounces of stabilizer per how may gallons of fuel in the tank. Mix in proper amount into a gallon of fuel then add to the tank. Hook up a remote water source for the engine; then start the engine and let it run for an appropriate amount of time to make sure the stabilizer has reached the fuel pump and the carburetor. This product is also good to use in lawnmowers, snow blowers, weed trimmers and chain saws.

A1*. External water source for the engine. On outboards and I/O's you can use the earmuff style adapter for the lower unit water pickup area. These are hooked to a garden hose. On straight inboard models, remove the water intake hose from the raw water pump, hook up another hose to the pump with enough length to reach a five gallon water bucket that you can fill with a garden hose. Fill the bucket, start the engine, then keep the garden hose running to replenish the bucket as the engine draws water from it. Let the engine warm up.

B. *While the engine is warm, it is a good time to change the engine oil and oil filter if applicable. Using a liquid lifter or a Jabsco oil withdrawal kit, suck the oil from the oil pan into a proper container to be disposed of properly. Remove oil filter. Make sure you put plenty of rags underneath the filter so oil doe not fall in the bilge. Most inboard engines use straight 30 W or 40 W motor oil. Fill the oil filter before installing it. If it is mounted upside down, do not fill it. Now, fill the crankcase with the same oil. Refer to owner's manual for the correct viscosity (weight) or give me a call and I'll tell you what oil to use. Do not use any multi-viscosity oil (10W 30) unless specified by the engine manufacturer. Do not use any synthetic oil (Mobil 1) or any anti-friction compounds (STP) on engines equipped with manual transmission that share the engine oil for lubrication. On engines that have Borg-Warner Velvet Drive, Hurth or Paragon hydraulic reverse gear, you can use these products.The reason we change oil in the fall is that there are acids (by-products of combustion) that build up in the oil. If these acids are left on bearing surfaces, this situation can cause premature wear.

C. Engine winterization. These are the processes we follow here in Cincinnati, Ohio. We can have temperatures far below 0 degrees during the winter months.

1. Start engine and recirculate fresh water through the engine using equipment suggested earlier in this article.

2. Shut off the engine and empty the water out of the five-gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with non-toxic marine anti-freeze.

3. Remove the drain plugs from the exhaust manifold, (2) if a V-8 or a V-6 oil cooler is equipped, the engine block, or either side of V-8's or V-6's or on one side if a straight 6. If a Chris Craft V-8 with water-cooled generator, remove the drain plug from the rear of that.
NOTE: If water does not come out, take a small piece of wire and probe the drain plug area until you get the water to flow out. Reinstall the drain plugs. Now, start the engine and suck the antifreeze out of the bucket and into the engine. Have someone catching the antifreeze when it exits through the exhaust. Check the degree of protection to be at least -20 degrees below 0, unless the lowest temperature in your area exceeds this. You may need 8 gallons of antifreeze to do the job. If you have a Chevrolet 454, you'll need more.

4. When you have reached the desired degree of protection, run the antifreeze through again and while the boat is running at a fast idle, run fogging fluid through the carburetor until smoke is very visible through the exhaust ~ then shut it off. On flat head six cylinder engines, just remove the spark plug, put approximately 2 ounces of fogging oil in each cylinder, then put a towel over the head and turn the engine over several times. This process will coat the cylinder walls and valves.

NOTE #1 On Chris Craft Q Series engines, a large hex head plug in the top of the intake manifold must be removed and water must be extracted using a turkey baster. This process must be done prior to circulating antifreeze through the engine. If it is not done, the intake manifold will freeze and break.

NOTE#2 On inboard/outboard (I/O), you can make your antifreeze feed by drilling a hole in the bottom of a five gallon plastic bucket, insert a ¾ O.D. bilge pump thru hull fitting, a ¾" I. D. garden hose section with a garden hose male end, then insert that into standard Mercruiser/OMC, etc. ear muffs. Position the bucket above lower unit level, fill it with antifreeze after positioning the earmuffs on the outdrive. Position two other buckets either side of the outdrive to catch antifreeze as it exits the engine. Again, check the exhaust antifreeze to be at a level of -25 degrees to -30 degrees.

D.*Trailer maintenance. This is the most forgotten area of boating. Nothing can ruin a day of boating more than having a wheel bearing seize up on the Interstate. Fall is the best time to service the wheel bearings. Even if you have bearing buddies, water still can get in the hubs. Water is our enemy. If droplets of water are on the bearing surfaces, they will rust over the winter and if the situation is prolonged, it will cause bearing failure. That is why I suggest repacking the wheel bearings every fall.

Listed below are the procedures to follow - we feel this is the correct way to pack bearings.

1. Jack up the trailer on each side until the tires are off the ground. Use jack stands or cement blocks so there is no chance of it falling down while you are working. Be sure the trailer is secure.

2. Remove the dust cap or bearing buddy. Use a dust cap remover or a suitable tool to do this.

3. Remove the cotter key, the large nut and the washer.
NOTE: Remember the sequence

4. Now, pull the hub out. Put a piece of cardboard down below you work so if the outer bearing falls out, it will not hit the ground.

5. Take a one-inch wood dowel or suitable tool and knock out the rear bearing grease seal.

6. Clean all parts in kerosene and blow them out with an air gun.

7. Inspect bearing for pits in the bearing rollers and the race, which is still in the hub. If they are bad, replace them. There are numbers on the bearing and the grease seal and you can get them at your local NAPA store.
NOTE: Removing the races from the hubs and installingnew ones should be professionally done.

8. To hand pack the bearing, put a large amount of grease in the palm of you hand and then with the large end of the bearing, kneed it into the grease repeatedly until the grease starts coming out the small end. Then rotate and repeat the process until you go all the way around.

9. Wash up the axle spindle and dry it.

10. Apply grease to the spindle and sea race area.

11. Grease the races in the hub generously. Then install the rear bearing and grease seal.

12. Slide the hub on and then slid in the outer bearing washer and nut.

13. Tighten the nut and then back off at the first opportunity to install the cotter key. Always use a new cotter key. Insert it and bend over the end.

14. Make sure there is little or no play in the hub.

15. Install dust cap or bearing buddy and the wheel and tire.

E.*Trailer Brakes.This is not an area for an amateur mechanic. I suggest if you feel your brake shoes are out of adjustment or your brake actuator (master cylinder) is leaking fluid or not working, seek professional assistance. This area is far too important for your personal safety and protection of your boat.

Jack McCarthy